Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

[realityguy]

For $44 you can have a lot of options...I played with them for awhile also.The 6" is too small but I figured I'd make a straight pipe one in the 6"..cut it down to 18" or so.
I was looking at the other pieces also..like the adjustable 90 degree that you could make straight..or any angle.The T's give you a nice cooking platform.That "midwest upright setup" would work well for one of those,perfect for you guys..and your top burn..

[zelph]

For $44 you can have a lot of options...I played with them for awhile also.The 6" is too small but I figured I'd make a straight pipe one in the 6"..cut it down to 18" or so.
I was looking at the other pieces also..like the adjustable 90 degree that you could make straight..or any angle.The T's give you a nice cooking platform.That "midwest upright setup" would work well for one of those,perfect for you guys..and your top burn..

The top burn is the way to go. Practice it and you'll use it all the time.

Your idea about the "T" is down right good!!!!! Ideas are flowing on how to make it the best way. The length and height are perfect for a small tent stove.

After the 1st of the year we'll see how funds are and maybe I'll pop for the "T"

I have to think on the front of the stove. How I should have the door. Should the cap pull out to load, or cut the face to open on a hinge. Have air enter on the sides. Six of one, half dozen of the other.

[realityguy]

Yeah..thought about that also..If you use the hinge,it raises the venting.A person could try the "pull-off"..then change it to the hinge mode after trying that way.No real "mods"(like adding the hinge first) would have to be corrected if you changed your mind on that.I'm going to just try slipping on the 6" one first.
I need to make that stove but my weekend is taken up until about tuesday...maybe next week I'll get it built..

[realityguy]

Okay..I threw one together...5lb 4-1/2oz..18" overall inside is 18"x5-7/8"diameter..top cook area is 4-1/2" wide by 11-1/2" in front of the chimney outlet,enough room for a small pot and coffee pot...I ended up remaking my own vent cover and cooktop shelf of polished brass pieces..probably will become brushed brass after the first burn..
I thought I had a piece of steel plate from a 1/2 chimney pipe shield..but it was too much of a pita to straighten out.I found a solid brass kickplate for a door(8x"35")for $5(regularly about $35,Lowe's)at a thrift store..and still have about 1/2 left,probably enough for another stove cookplate.The handle was out of another small piece of brass I had(about 5/8" x7x1/16",estimated),too lazy to go to lowes and hunt up a brass cabinet handle..The handle may get some type of insulating washers behind it to better control the heat factor from the front of the stove to the handle.I'll have to see how hot it gets first.The ventcover has a spring that should stay cool enough to use your hand for dampering the stove or opening the vent holes.
Legs are 6" painted bolts(Stove Bright woodstove paint) with a couple washers ,a nut outside and wingnut inside..Bolts on the door pieces are brass so they won't rust up on me...but steel nuts inside(Thought I had more brass nuts,couldn't find them..Hmm..)
The door for now slides on about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" to the pipe ridge..I don't see it falling off and should work fine like that,goes on and off easy and seals well enough once it bottoms out to the raised area around the stove pipe collar.The back is mounted on with three screws.The vent cover has the holes matched up so it takes only 1/2"(That's inch!) of turn to totally damper it down..glides nice due to a .005 stainless shim around the bolt between the stove front and vent cover.
I didn't cut small triangles of brass to cover the small front triangles under the cooktop ends.The center of that is resting on the arch of the stove so it should get good and hot.I might slip some in at some time to see what a difference the heat factor is if I cover the ends there..verses nothing there front and back under the cook shelf.

[zelph]

Looks classy with the brass

Why did you choose 18" for it's length"

Your easy "stovepipe" stove turned out great. Really nice, I like it a lot If it was an 8" diameter I would have had my daughter buy it and ship it to me for Christmas

Now put the fire to it and see how it burns.

[ridebks]

Nice work!

[realityguy]

The caps here are not crimped..fit over a crimped end..makes a nice smooth surface on the ends and the entire stove.18"?..I didn't want a 24"(too long,too hard to store the wood in a tent and the front may go out while the back is still burning) and didn't want a 12"(too short,not a long enough burn)..18" seemed about right using wood about 12-16" long..and it gives me a good length top cookplate where I can put two items on top.I think a 24" stove might end up with a fire under half the cookplate...If it was an 8" diameter stove.I might consider 24" long.18" is nicer to pack..Again,all the pipe will fit inside (18" pieces)and fit a tent bag for easy packing.
I would have liked the top cookplate to be 6" wide but the door kick plate was only 8" so I compromised at 4-1/2".I can still use small frying pans or oval ones for omelets or eggs...which I have a couple lightweight ones about 4x8".I can put a small coffee pot near the pipe and cook in front of that yet.
My stoves are small because my tents are small.I'm not trying to heat a football field.

[zelph]

All I saw at lowes was crimped caps

Good explanation for the size, thanks.

Now fire it up a couple times and change it's color. I want to know how it drafts. Top light it with telephone book paper

[realityguy]

It should draft fine..just like the stainless one.I might have to add a vent cover inside which is no big thing,just bolt a small piece of metal over the front holes to change the draft direction towards the sides inside of right down the middle.

Couple more things..I didn't use any heavy power tools other than a stationary belt sander to smooth some of the edges..which can also be done by hand or with a belt sander turned upside down.
I used a Dewalt cordless..2-1/16"holesaw,1/2" bit,3/8" bit,1/4" bit.1/8" bit(or close to those sizes),and a phillips bit.
I also used a Makita jigsaw with a metal cutting blade for cutting the brass ventcover out of the 8"x35" sheet and cutting the brass overall for the shelf.I used an 18" harbor freight brake($35) to bend the brass shelf.
I used a pair of Wiss yellow snips... and needlenose pliers for setting the chimney adapter through the pipe with the small 1/4" wide flanges as stated in post 1..There is fiberglass insulation sealing the chimney adapter to the stove between the bent over tabs and under the shelf around the pipe,,good solid seal and support.
I marked a centerline and ran all my dimensions off of that with the seam down for the other center line for drilling the leg holes.The leg holes should be drilled 1-1/2" off the center of the bottom and a couple inches from each end.
I cut the shelf and did everything pretty much as in the first post(except drilled the shelf hole for the chimney (2-1/16")while it was flat,mounted it on the stove and drilled the stove using the shelf as the guide for the 2-1/16" bit through the stove pipe...take off the shelf,set the chimney adapter,bend flanges on that,then screw the shelf back on and take off the clear plastic protector for the polished brass last.

[sudden]

Really nice design RG.

Can't wait to see the burn in. I like the door idea, no more hinge. This is something anyone could build.