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Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 1:53 pm
by realityguy
Lowes carries standard thicker gauge woodstove chimney pipe prepainted in high heat black and parts that would make a nice simple tent stove for woodburning!
Check out your local Lowe' the woodstove chimney department.They do carry the nice flat end caps in the black pipe for $7.50 or so.They also carry a cheesy galvanized one for about $3(DON'T USE THAT!) ..but that is a thinner gauge.I think the black pipe itself in a 24" length is about the same price as the black end caps.For $25-30 it would make an excellent size stove that is easy to replace parts.
IMPORTANT..Build the stove with the connecting seam straight down as the centerline of the stove to make things easy for cutting drilling and lining things up.
Being the end pieces are flat,it's simple to adapt a flat round rotating vent on the front one and the back can be mounted with only 3 screws over the crimped end.The front door needs two or three studs to rotate and lock on.The front needs to be cut for the length you want(18" to 23") and the pipe crimped for a similar setup except for a 90 degree cut slot by each screw hole in the cap ("I_")that allows the front cap to be turned a 1/2" or so and pulled off(locks on,twists off and pull)..allowing full access inside the front of the stove.Poprivets riveted from the inside should end up with the studs sticking out for the cap to lock on.Put the cap on,drill the holes through the cap and the stove for the rivets,then remove the cap and install the rivets.Then figure and cut the slots in the cap for it to lock on tight when turned slightly. A 3" standard cabinet handle can be mounted as a nice handle to twist with(modern cabinet 1/4" round one that is shaped like "I___I" is perfect!)The handle can be mounted near the top with a 3-1/2" rotating round vent(heavier electrical flat round box cover WITHOUT THE CENTER KNOCKOUT HOLE) below with holes drilled through both the vent circle and stove on a center 1/4" bolt(drill the cover with 1/2" holes around the bottom half,then mount it to the stove,and drill through those holes,using a bolt through the first hole after drilling to keep everything align when you drill the rest.)There should be enough space between the holes to allow a small movement to completely cover the holes by the spaces between them,no need to rotate the entire cover unless you want a full shut down6-7 holes should be enough.For a handle for that vent cover,I'd make a straight-in cut for about 3/4" on the "non-hole" half,then bend one corner up 90 degrees with a hole and spring.The springs stay cooler by far.Springs are made by wrapping softer wire around a bolt,then bend up the first loop to attach through a hole in the end of the vent lever..or add an extension bar handle to the vent circle that rotates straight out through a single hole to grab onto.
The cookplate needs to be a flat plate with a couple 90 degree bends so it will attach to the stove(3-1/2"+6"+3-1/2"=14" x24" or so.The front and back end areas should be made to bend down and fit the curvature of the stovepipe to retain more heat under the plate with the sides of the plate to reach just below the midpoint so it can be screwed or bolted on at the midpoint with some small portions of the screws sticking inside the stove for a 5-3/4" wide grill shelf.
The chimney adapter..minimum 2" diameter size,works well.I would mount it fully through the back end of the cookplate for more heat under it and more support for the chimney.The chimney being over the stove rather than out the back gives the stove more stability and less likely to tip backwards with the weight and pressure of the pipe itself on a lightweight stove.Mount/screw the shelf to the stove as it will end up(with the black stove pipe seam straight down in the middle),layout the hole for the 2" chimney on the cookplate,then using a metal cutting hole saw,slowly drill a 2"(I've used a common 2-1/8", no problem) through both the cookplate and the stovepipe.The flat cookplate will guide the hole saw better and cleaner through the curved pipe.Unscrew the cookplate..then place a short chimney piece(3" long) of pipe through the curved top of the pipe about 1/2" on the low side points where it meets the circular stovepipe.Draw a line on the chimney pipe that follows the curvature of the stove pipe.Pull out the stove pipe piece and cut every 1/4" to the drawn line starting at the seam of the chimney as the first cut around it.Bend every other 1/4" piece out 90 degrees to the line and leave the other ones straight.Wrap a very small amount of fiberglass cloth(say rolled 1/4-3/8") under the tabs sticking out and over the ones that are straight,stick the pipe through the stove pipe hole,and bend the pieces sticking inside the pipe,tight to the inside of the pipe to secure the chimney adapter to the stove pipe.Slide the cookplate down over the chimney adapter and snug to the flattened tabs,screw the cooktop down snug and you should have a solid airtight chimney adapter that can be changed at anytime in the future without a lot of work.If you want more support,add a couple L brackets screwed to the chimney shelf and pipe on the sides.
Legs..6" carriage bolts with the heads down,one nut against the stove body and a wingut inside the stove to snug them to the stove.A small washer under the wingnut(and maybe outside) makes it more solid/airtight yet.The holes for the legs..equally spaced off the center seam of the pipe,say 3-4" apart for a good sturdy base following the curvature of the 6" pipe.Bigger feet needed?..add fender washers and another nut below(more weight and you may have to add a second washer to get over the carriage bolts square shoulders at the head...or use regular 1/4"x6 screws instead..if you can find them.
Anyway..there's somebody an easy stove project and it should work out to be a pretty good stove..with all parts renewable at lowes without going through too much trouble finding them.I'll add some pictures and drawings for the parts needed if somebody needs them,especially for the curvature of the endplates of the cooktop.
I don't winter camp and have no use for the stove so someone else can build one and post pictures here.I'm just supplying ideas,where to get parts,and assembly should be pretty easy to make with minimum tools...drill(+1/8",1/4",and 1/2" drill bits,2-1/8" hole saw) wiss metal snips(for cutting the pipe and cooktop) stovepipe crimpers(for chimney pieces and to cut off/crimp stove pipe for the front door to attach),screwdriver,pliers.A bending brake is nice but a person could probably bend the cookplate by cutting a 2x4(x18" or the length needed) at a sharp 45 degree edge(or not?),lining that edge up at the bend line and using the screw mount holes for attaching it to the 2x4.The 3-1/2" 2x4 width is the length needed down the side of the stove.The flat top area is clamped or placed on a flat surface with the 2x4 in hand and bent with that.A short 2x4 can be used for the end piece bends in the same manner.
materials needed:
2 flat chimney endcaps
1-6"x24" black chimney pipe
piece of 2" downspout for chimney and adapter
piece of 24 gauge(?) flat steel 14"x24"
1 round 3-1/2" or so electrical box cover,without holes or knockouts
fiberglass cloth(just a little for around the chimney adapter and around the back end of the stove if you want it(should already fit tight there)
1/4"x1/2" long bolt,2 nuts(for locking)
1/4"x6" carriage bolts(4)
1/4" washers..get 10(two for the spinning vent cover above
1/4" wingnuts(4)
12 screws for the cookplate to stove attachment(10-24x3/4") with nuts,washers(get packages).If you don't want a possible shelf inside for toast/cooking,just get 1/2" ones)If you want a nice sliding shelf support,get some 1/2x1/2"aluminum L metal 3' long..cut a shelf to fit the width.There won't be a lot of room but it should brown toast quick over coals!..or cook things in shallow pans..cookies,sausages.. :roll:
1- 3" modern cabinet handle.. I___I
3 poprivets for the front door studs...

Did I forget anything?..let me know and I'll amend the list.Sorry it's so long..too much coffee this morning. :lol:

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:48 pm
by Vibe
realityguy wrote:
Did I forget anything?..let me know and I'll amend the list.Sorry it's so long..too much coffee this morning. :lol:
Just pictures. :D

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:00 pm
by realityguy
Because of the cost involved and my not needing one, I wasn't going to build one.I will get some drawings up when I can locate my drafting tools for some isometric views and flat views of the cooktop that needs to be cut.
When I can get out friday,I might buy the parts and build one anyway.

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 6:25 pm
by zelph
Go bigger pipe for stove body..........we need lots of room for big wood, burnum long time :D

Stove pipe is good idea, I like it.

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 8:07 pm
by realityguy
If you go to 8" stove pipe and might be a special order item at Lowes or you might have to go to a more expensive woodstove shop to get the end pieces that match the pipe.I was thinking 6" because it should be at most stores already.My main goal was a "one stop/shop" stove idea with them having everything needed to assemble one..except the chimney pipe of course.
I figure one 2" steel downspout will make one stove pipe in sections and a heck of a lot of 3-4" adapters for several stoves!I only need one pipe but could have several stoves that use it...why I didn't add it to the build.I already have 2 tent woodstoves(I'll probably never use) and maybe a 3rd by this weekend..that will all use the same pipe...3 different sizes for three different tents or tent sizes.
Once items are assembled,the stove should be easy to build in a day..and prepainted with high heat black paint..which usually costs about $6-7 a can.Not only will the stove be functional but purdy also! :lol:

8" pipe..uses the same instructions except for a wider cookplate(8" or17 inch material width overall),longer 4-1/2' sides.everything else should remain the same..except cost of the initial stovepipe and end components.If you want to go 10"diameter or 12" problem,just increase the cookplate width and side height accordingly to the new diameter of pipe.Why not make three in three different sizes!! ;)

Drawing and picture of the Lowe's stove end caps--->

Actually..for the time it took to read that first post,you should have the stove built. it was put up so people could print it out and use it for instructions in your shop and a shopping list also. ;)

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 9:54 pm
by Ridgerunner
Excuse me while I get some visine! :lol:

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:11 pm
by realityguy
You're excused... :geek: :ugeek: ..Must be the old age... :roll: :shock:

Perhaps you should let your wife read it and she can explain it to you in more time... :mrgreen:


Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 8:26 pm
by realityguy
Interest has been shown in an 8" version so i went back to lowes to check that out..Found this T piece for $20 in the 8" which allows more options and configurations by just adding the parts needed to two of the three caps needed.As long as the chimney adapter is on one of the caps,one plate for cooking or blank,and the third has the vent and removable for a door..You can change the configuration at what you need for the trip.
The chimney adapter could be placed out the T itself for a couple different configurations to allow a full cookplate in the vertical mode or horizontal mode with the cookplate up or horizontal cooking on the pipe T itself...Lots of options,rather than just a straight pipe stove!
Feed door can be put on the end or the front depending on what you burn for length of wood,vertical or horizontal burn,or the setup of how you need to load wood in your tent(what end is over dirt...).

Keep in mind that I haven't crimped two of the ends of the T which allows the caps to slide on and be even with the shorter stub of the T that has been crimped at the factory..all stubs would end up even in length.
More options could be made with the chimney outlet actually coming out the T at one end also..and allows a full round cooktop(without the adapter there) and more space to cook.
Legs will have to be figured out when a person decides how he will use the stove but could be just some pipe cradles stuck in the dirt in the horizonal mode and maybe 3 bolts out a cap(again stuck in the dirt) in the vertical one(in other horizontal modes the holes could be covered by short bolts in that cap).
Pipe costs: Figure $20 for the T..(or..about $13 for 24" of stovepipe if you don't want to use the T) and the 8"caps are actually cheaper than the 6" ones at $7.50(6" caps are $7.90(?!)and the 24" pipe is about $6)
The vent is actually a 4" square electrical box cover(58 cents) that I cut to round and left one corner on to attach a handle/spring onto with a scrap of aluminum.The cover was cut with a jigsaw and metal cutting blade,then smoothed off on a belt sander.The holes were drilled by hand about 3 times with different sized bits.I left two smaller because I want full coverage of the holes if I spin the vent cover.
The chimney adapter is a downspout to gutter adapter at $3 and a 2" heavy galvanized elbow about $3.50(if you need one to change the chimney direction out the T).
If you use just metal screws for the door studs,and to attach the other two caps,all drilled in the same place,everything should be removable,reversible..and probably take you 2-3 whole hours to make one. :o
The pieces are just black taped to the T..everything goes back to Lowes tomorrow.I have no need for the stove so won't build one. Hopefully I've made them some sales!The Ts are awful dusty,VERY FEW,and may become an out of stock item VERY QUICK;get them while you can.I think this store had only 3..
Overall length end to end is 15-1/2" when the caps are in place and about 11" out the side to the back curvature of the stove pipe.

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 9:58 pm
by zelph
Tomorrow I'm going to lowes. I like the options using the T. I need to see one in person before I buy. :o Need to see what length of wood I can put in there. Thanks for the great mock up and photos. That sure is an easy way to get to a finished product made of quality steel for longevity and safety. Nice idea!!! Thanks

Re: Easy "stovepipe" tent stove idea...!

Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 10:40 pm
by realityguy
Thinking more about it..If you do mount the chimney outlet to the T itself and still want to use it in a vertical or horizontal mode..keeping both options,a person could mount it on the side near the end..90 degrees to the third outlet and still have both a horizontal and vertical option.
If you get one and play with tape as I did,you'll understand.I think a "cradle" rest-in leg stand around the pipe(sorry..tried to use typing characters to form a picture of one and when I posted it it moves them around too badly to understand :roll: )

This is the hardest piece to make: Image

This took me about 30-40 minutes for layout,drilling,bending the small 90 degree part,attaching the aluminum arm with two bolts,cut the bolts off, and peened the ends over the nuts so they wouldn't come loose..I'll probably end up drilling the two "mid" ventholes out to the full 1/2" also.I wanted to make sure the holes would get covered by the spaces between them..I only need to rotate the plate 1/2" to cover the vent holes entirely..factory spring I had laying around for something cool to grab onto...This ventplate is the only part a person really has to make!
I'll mount the center hole with a couple washers and a 1/4"x1/2" bolt(ground mostly off on the inside and peened the same way to prevent it from coming undone.).Then drill through the vent plateDrill one hole,then throw a bolyt through it for alignment for the rest) and through the endcap with a block of wood behind it for support to make the holes come out clean.I did sand the ventplate on a belt sander to get it smooth on the back after drilling the holes so it should turn smoothly.If needed,I can make/mount a shim washer of .005 stainless behind the plate to make it turn real easy. The handle would get a 4" plate behind the door for more strength.I want it pretty strong to give it a half inch of turn,then pull off a couple studs or screws to remove..opposite motion to lock it on.The entire front will come off and the other places drilled the same for moving things around.I don't think any insulating is needed..tight fit if done right against the end ridges on the T.

Legs again..
Make 3 of them so you can place the one side forward if you want to cook on the side of the pipe.That would be solid.Only two might need some attachment points to the stove..screws and short straps across the upper points of the cradles to the stove where needed.They could be setup as a X under the bottom for a vertical mode also and strapped to the stove,ends stuck into dirt to make them ridgid..

The chimney outlet..was a downpsout adapter that gets cut into a gutter with a small flat plate around it.That plate can go inside or outside the stove with a few screws set over the flat portion to "snug" it to the stove.If you can't find just the "outlet",look for a whole "gutter end" piece that has the round on ealready in it,and cut it out with a portion of the flat bottom piece of the gutter as a mount plate.If you think more "meat" is needed for the mount,use hole saws(3" and 2") and cut an additional 2" holed "washer"(or two) for sandwiching it and the stove body together around it with some bolts(dan=poprivets.. :cry: :lol: ).That should beef it up!

One more note..if you do get blowback through the vent holes,attach a small piece of flashing to the bottom of the stove and bent45 degrees towards the door to cover the area directly in front of the vent holes so the air needs to go around that plate and into the stove by the sides..That should fix that..if needed.