Check out your local Lowe's..in the woodstove chimney department.They do carry the nice flat end caps in the black pipe for $7.50 or so.They also carry a cheesy galvanized one for about $3(DON'T USE THAT!) ..but that is a thinner gauge.I think the black pipe itself in a 24" length is about the same price as the black end caps.For $25-30 it would make an excellent size stove that is easy to replace parts.
IMPORTANT..Build the stove with the connecting seam straight down as the centerline of the stove to make things easy for cutting drilling and lining things up.
Being the end pieces are flat,it's simple to adapt a flat round rotating vent on the front one and the back can be mounted with only 3 screws over the crimped end.The front door needs two or three studs to rotate and lock on.The front needs to be cut for the length you want(18" to 23") and the pipe crimped for a similar setup except for a 90 degree cut slot by each screw hole in the cap ("I_")that allows the front cap to be turned a 1/2" or so and pulled off(locks on,twists off and pull)..allowing full access inside the front of the stove.Poprivets riveted from the inside should end up with the studs sticking out for the cap to lock on.Put the cap on,drill the holes through the cap and the stove for the rivets,then remove the cap and install the rivets.Then figure and cut the slots in the cap for it to lock on tight when turned slightly. A 3" standard cabinet handle can be mounted as a nice handle to twist with(modern cabinet 1/4" round one that is shaped like "I___I" is perfect!)The handle can be mounted near the top with a 3-1/2" rotating round vent(heavier electrical flat round box cover WITHOUT THE CENTER KNOCKOUT HOLE) below with holes drilled through both the vent circle and stove on a center 1/4" bolt(drill the cover with 1/2" holes around the bottom half,then mount it to the stove,and drill through those holes,using a bolt through the first hole after drilling to keep everything align when you drill the rest.)There should be enough space between the holes to allow a small movement to completely cover the holes by the spaces between them,no need to rotate the entire cover unless you want a full shut down6-7 holes should be enough.For a handle for that vent cover,I'd make a straight-in cut for about 3/4" on the "non-hole" half,then bend one corner up 90 degrees with a hole and spring.The springs stay cooler by far.Springs are made by wrapping softer wire around a bolt,then bend up the first loop to attach through a hole in the end of the vent lever..or add an extension bar handle to the vent circle that rotates straight out through a single hole to grab onto.
The cookplate needs to be a flat plate with a couple 90 degree bends so it will attach to the stove(3-1/2"+6"+3-1/2"=14" x24" or so.The front and back end areas should be made to bend down and fit the curvature of the stovepipe to retain more heat under the plate with the sides of the plate to reach just below the midpoint so it can be screwed or bolted on at the midpoint with some small portions of the screws sticking inside the stove for a 5-3/4" wide grill shelf.
The chimney adapter..minimum 2" diameter size,works well.I would mount it fully through the back end of the cookplate for more heat under it and more support for the chimney.The chimney being over the stove rather than out the back gives the stove more stability and less likely to tip backwards with the weight and pressure of the pipe itself on a lightweight stove.Mount/screw the shelf to the stove as it will end up(with the black stove pipe seam straight down in the middle),layout the hole for the 2" chimney on the cookplate,then using a metal cutting hole saw,slowly drill a 2"(I've used a common 2-1/8", no problem) through both the cookplate and the stovepipe.The flat cookplate will guide the hole saw better and cleaner through the curved pipe.Unscrew the cookplate..then place a short chimney piece(3" long) of pipe through the curved top of the pipe about 1/2" on the low side points where it meets the circular stovepipe.Draw a line on the chimney pipe that follows the curvature of the stove pipe.Pull out the stove pipe piece and cut every 1/4" to the drawn line starting at the seam of the chimney as the first cut around it.Bend every other 1/4" piece out 90 degrees to the line and leave the other ones straight.Wrap a very small amount of fiberglass cloth(say rolled 1/4-3/8") under the tabs sticking out and over the ones that are straight,stick the pipe through the stove pipe hole,and bend the pieces sticking inside the pipe,tight to the inside of the pipe to secure the chimney adapter to the stove pipe.Slide the cookplate down over the chimney adapter and snug to the flattened tabs,screw the cooktop down snug and you should have a solid airtight chimney adapter that can be changed at anytime in the future without a lot of work.If you want more support,add a couple L brackets screwed to the chimney shelf and pipe on the sides.
Legs..6" carriage bolts with the heads down,one nut against the stove body and a wingut inside the stove to snug them to the stove.A small washer under the wingnut(and maybe outside) makes it more solid/airtight yet.The holes for the legs..equally spaced off the center seam of the pipe,say 3-4" apart for a good sturdy base following the curvature of the 6" pipe.Bigger feet needed?..add fender washers and another nut below(more weight and you may have to add a second washer to get over the carriage bolts square shoulders at the head...or use regular 1/4"x6 screws instead..if you can find them.
Anyway..there's somebody an easy stove project and it should work out to be a pretty good stove..with all parts renewable at lowes without going through too much trouble finding them.I'll add some pictures and drawings for the parts needed if somebody needs them,especially for the curvature of the endplates of the cooktop.
I don't winter camp and have no use for the stove so someone else can build one and post pictures here.I'm just supplying ideas,where to get parts,and assembly hints.it should be pretty easy to make with minimum tools...drill(+1/8",1/4",and 1/2" drill bits,2-1/8" hole saw) wiss metal snips(for cutting the pipe and cooktop) stovepipe crimpers(for chimney pieces and to cut off/crimp stove pipe for the front door to attach),screwdriver,pliers.A bending brake is nice but a person could probably bend the cookplate by cutting a 2x4(x18" or the length needed) at a sharp 45 degree edge(or not?),lining that edge up at the bend line and using the screw mount holes for attaching it to the 2x4.The 3-1/2" 2x4 width is the length needed down the side of the stove.The flat top area is clamped or placed on a flat surface with the 2x4 in hand and bent with that.A short 2x4 can be used for the end piece bends in the same manner.
materials needed:
2 flat chimney endcaps
1-6"x24" black chimney pipe
piece of 2" downspout for chimney and adapter
piece of 24 gauge(?) flat steel 14"x24"
1 round 3-1/2" or so electrical box cover,without holes or knockouts
fiberglass cloth(just a little for around the chimney adapter and around the back end of the stove if you want it(should already fit tight there)
1/4"x1/2" long bolt,2 nuts(for locking)
1/4"x6" carriage bolts(4)
1/4" washers..get 10(two for the spinning vent cover above
1/4" wingnuts(4)
12 screws for the cookplate to stove attachment(10-24x3/4") with nuts,washers(get packages).If you don't want a possible shelf inside for toast/cooking,just get 1/2" ones)If you want a nice sliding shelf support,get some 1/2x1/2"aluminum L metal 3' long..cut a shelf to fit the width.There won't be a lot of room but it should brown toast quick over coals!..or cook things in shallow pans..cookies,sausages..
1- 3" modern cabinet handle.. I___I
3 poprivets for the front door studs...
Did I forget anything?..let me know and I'll amend the list.Sorry it's so long..too much coffee this morning.
..Must be the old age... 
